You need to knead the rice before you pound the rice or it will not turn into mochi. Kneading is 80%, pounding is 20%. But most people only watch/know the 20%
Same for Noseriding. When you think of noseriding you think of the surfer on the front of the board. Will that is the latter 20%. Most of the work for a good noseride is in the set-up. The creating of the "pillow" and "lock" which is 80%
Before you go forward, you need to go back ( or lean back ) to create an area on the wave to ride on that will support you without the nose dropping
See the "pillow" she is riding ? Also notice the the back of the board is locked down by the wave. Lots of air under the nose of the board while she is still in the middle of the board.
This is why Go Suzuki is a Pro. He is actually doing a stall to set-up the noseride. This type of stall is very uncommon. Usually you lift up the nose, but he is burying the rail to slow down. 80% first
Then when the wave/time is right, he goes to the nose. You can just see the yellow board in the wave. Good set-up leads to good noseride. 20% latter
Here is a great set up. She is lifting the nose to stall the board and create the "pillow". You can see the water going forward under the board. Watch DVDs and you will see that forward spray right before the surfer walks to the nose.
But it is not as easy of lifting the nose and then walking forward. You need to have patience and timing. She is now walking which is the latter 20% but she did not create the lock for the tail. Notice you can clearly see the tail but no water flowing over it. Plus the nose is too close to the water's surface and she is still in the middle of the board. If she waited 1/2 a second more, the lock ( red arrow area ) would be there.
Before you walk forward, you set up by stalling the board to create a "pillow" to ride on
You wait for the "lock" which is the wave curling over the tail before you walk. If there is no lock, then it doesnt matter how good you walk. No matter how much you pound, it wont turn into mochi without the kneading first
See the sheet of water holding down the tail ? That allows me to be on the nose.
80/20 rule. Everyone sees the exciting part, but do they realize the preparation that goes first.
check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/ to see some 80/20 rules
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