Jonah Hill on me ...

http://www.elle.com/pop-culture/celebrities/jonah-hill-profile?src=spr_TWITTER&spr_id=1448_28338699&6621313=1

 

The writer of a Rolling Stone cover story about Hill’s apocalyptic comedy This Is the End in June apparently did not feel the love. Hill’s reputation hit the Internet skids thanks to the article, which had the actor responding superseriously to supersilly questions. (When the interviewer posed a question about his bodily functions, for instance, Hill went off: “Being in a funny movie doesn’t make me have to answer dumb questions.”) “I read that interview and was mortified,” says Hill. “Not to make an excuse, but I had been going through some stuff that was hard on me. And I would say that the gentleman who did the interview was not a nice person. But I acted like not a nice person in return.”

Being nice is a sort of ethos for Hill. At Comedy Central’s James Franco roast this summer, “I remember sitting with James, Seth [Rogen], Bill Hader, and Andy Samberg afterward and thinking how crazy it was that we had all been so horrible to each other,” says Hill. “All of those guys are really honest, and we share the same outlook, of treating people nicely.” And yet, he adds, with a laugh, “There was something cathartic about that.”

Get a move on!

  Here's another tip from the Harbour forum.  The advice to start walking immediately is great and you'd think it would be easy.  So, why can't I do it?  Lord knows.       

  

          Nose riding How To??? in Harbour Surf Talk Forum

Couple of tips. On smaller, peaky waves try, both on your forehand and backhand, paddling into the break, then rotate into a quick top turn from the back of the board. As the board comes around start walking immediately (no matter how poor your cross stepping is, you will find you can take at least two, maybe three steps) This will set you up in the high line (in the fast section) then step or shuffle up front using your knees to push the nose down and steer. If the waves are faster, take off sideways, as deep as you can, away from the break, stay high and start running up front as soon as you stand up. The secret is the quick movement during or immediately after the turn. On bigger waves let your board run all the way down the face, then using your head, shoulders and arms, rotate into a hard bottom turn generating thrust both out and up the face. As the board comes up the face, set the outside rail deep (and slightly down angle) into the shoulder by a hard downweight squat or do a 'Stanley' stomp. This will set you up for a quick cover up or a cheater five through the section. When the wave mushes out on you, try cutting back while pushing down on the tail with your back foot, then lift your front foot off the board, forcing a quick stall. Keep the board hanging up there (you can even do the twist) until the wave picks up, then quickly run up front. Last trick, make a conscious effort to lift your feet when stepping.

  Found this over at the Harbour surfboards forum.  Nothing earth shattering but I do like the advice to fade the first turn.  As to "keep your shoulders over your hips" -- I can't figure out what that means.  Anyway, let's start with a photo of David N. from back in the day.  Amazing!

Here is some advice and things I have figured out that have helped me (and pardon me since it sounds like you already know some of this and some is already mentioned-it will just make more sense, at least to me, if I say it all here): 
1) fade the other direction - if the wave allows - before you do your bottom turn and start going to the nose as the board is rising coming out of the bottom turn 
2) take small cross steps are first and don't lift your moving foot completely of the deck - maintain a light touch with deck 
3) bend at the knees and keep your shoulders over your hips 
4) try to noseride when you have a steeper face - not a gentle slope - you will be going faster and like riding a bike, it will be easier to maintain your balance and you will be less likely to stall or pearl - this sounds like your major issue 
5) if you are adventureous, noseride into an oncoming closeout (meaning after you have been riding a while and the wave starts breaking back toward you in front of you). This will make sure the face is steep enough/you are going fast enough that it is very doubtful you will stall/pearl (until you get to the closeout and then if you are quick, you can back up on your board and cutback or at least straighten out). This will give you confidence in critical situations 
6) if the face starts crumbling in front of you (as opposed to a pitching out closeout), don't back off the nose - at least not much - and squat a little so you can maintain your balance (and maybe lean a little toward the face) and grab your rail to not lose your board if you do lose your balance, until you get around the whitewater and standup straighter again. 
7) don't give up! 
Good luck!